Feature: The best 21 Cartier watches
For generations, Cartier has sold watches to everyone from movie stars to maharajas, helping to define the world of modern luxury. Primarily a jeweller, the grande maison has a long and storied history of making as well as selling timepieces, boasting models such as the Tank and the Santos. These two design icons and many more are featured in this unmissable round-up of our all-time best Cartier watches.
Crash, reference 446813491
Image courtesy of Bonhams
Although reminiscent of a Salvador Dali painting, the provenance of the Crash owes nothing to the Spanish surrealist. Nor was its design inspired by a Cartier watch that got half-melted in a car crash. It was actually conceived after a request from a loyal client of the London branch during the Swinging 60s who wanted something unorthodox. Having been presented with one of the earliest Crash models, he decided it was too odd for him after all and returned it after a week. The model pictured is from circa 1991 but original vintage models now sell for $100k-plus.
Santos Skeleton, reference W2020018
With this manual-wind Santos model, Cartier carries off the skeleton dial look with aplomb. It’s an architectural masterpiece owing to the seamless integration of the movement and the numerals, which sit within the dial like the spokes of a bicycle wheel. Interestingly, the case is made from palladium—not your average precious metal—while the clasp on the strap is white gold.
Cloche de Cartier, reference 4337
Image courtesy of Bonhams
Part of Cartier’s Prive collection, where the maison revisits some of its most iconic designs, the Cloche started life as a brooch watch in the 1920s, which explains its unusual bell-shaped case (“cloche” is French for “bell”). Its quirky design makes perfect sense when you remove it from your wrist and place it upright on a desk so that it looks like a small clock.
Rotonde de Cartier Jour et Nuit, reference W1550051
One of the most distinctive Cartier watches of recent times, this Rotonde model is known as the Jour et Nuit (Day and Night). The intricately hand-guilloched disc, exposed in the upper half of the dial, revolves to show the hours, indicated by a sun or a moon depending on whether it’s AM or PM. The lower half of the dial displays the minutes with the centrally mounted blued hand instantly jumping back to zero on the 60th second.
Ballon Bleu, reference W69012Z4
To appreciate the craftsmanship of the Ballon Bleu you’ve got to hold it in the palm of your hand where the smooth feel of its pebble-like case becomes evident. Adding to its distinctive looks are the cabochon winding crown that sits under a protective hoop and the seconds markers that curve inwards to accommodate the date aperture at 3 o’clock. Despite being a relatively simple watch, there’s nothing quite like it.
Promenade d’une Panthere, reference HP100490
Image courtesy of Phillips
A recurring motif for Cartier is the panther, its graceful form finding its way onto everything from brooches to vanity cases. But how do you best incorporate it into a watch? Cartier showed its haute horlogerie skills with this dazzling timepiece, inverting the movement so that the winding rotor—in the form of a diamond-clad panther—is displayed on the dial side over an inky mother-of-pearl backdrop. The bezel and lugs also feature pavé-set diamonds.
Rotonde de Cartier Astrotourbillon, reference W1556221
Image courtesy of Phillips
An astrotourbillon is almost as thrilling as it sounds, with the escapement rotating around the centre of the dial and functioning as the seconds hand—rather than stuck in an aperture at 6 o’clock, which is where a tourbillon usually finds itself imprisoned. Made from the impressive-sounding niobium-titanium, a corrosion-resistant alloy used in the Large Hadron Collider, this is one of only 50 made, with a skeleton-dial version also available.
Tank Chrono Monopoussoir, reference W1549651
Image courtesy of Phillips
Made in a limited edition of 100 pieces circa 2007, this square-cased, pink-gold monopusher chronograph is a slightly larger re-edition of a 1930s Cartier model. The most impressive thing about this watch though is its manual-wind movement, the Caliber 045MC. It was co-developed by Techniques Horlogères Appliquées, a firm comprising three esteemed watchmakers: Vianney Halter, Denis Flageollet, and Francois-Paul Journe—all now industry legends in their own right.
Tank a Guichets
Image courtesy of Phillips
“Guichets” is French for “counters”, and two small minutes and hours counters on a blank slab of platinum is pretty much all you’re getting with this ingeniously pared-down version of the Tank. It’s actually a reissue of a model from the 1930s when these kind of jump-hour watches were quite popular. In 1997 Cartier brought out 150 pieces to celebrate each year of the brand’s incredible existence, while original vintage versions are rarer still, with around 15-20 thought to have been made.
Drive Second Time Zone, reference WSNM0005
For the jet-setter who refuses to let their sartorial standards slip when traversing the globe, there’s the superb dual-time Drive de Cartier. Though unmistakeably Cartier, its asymmetric dial packs in a retrograde second time zone, day-night indicator and a date, as well as small-seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. Wearing this, you’ll be right at home in the business-class lounge.
Caliber de Cartier Diver, reference W7100055
From Drive to Diver now as we put the spotlight on one of the sportiest watches ever to have graced the Cartier catalogue. This discontinued model may feature Roman numerals, the signature cabochon crown and a few 18k rose-gold components to give it a luxurious flourish but it’s tougher than it looks. The 300-metre water-resistance equals that of a Rolex Submariner, and the unidirectional ceramic bezel and robust textured rubber strap make it worthy of Poseidon himself.
Pasha, reference WSPA0009
The former Pasha of Marrakesh reportedly requested a one-of-a-kind watch from Cartier in the 1930s to wear in his swimming pool. The result was a watch featuring a metal grille on the crystal to protect it, as well as a screw-down cap that sealed the crown from water. Today the Pasha is available with or without the grille, and there are even several chronograph versions. Notable wearers over the years include legendary crooners Sammy Davis Junior and Tom Jones.
Muhammad Ali’s personal Tank
Image courtesy of Bonhams
You’d expect Muhammed Ali to rock something ultra-masculine like a Rolex Submariner. Instead, the late, great heavyweight champion boxer wore a delicate Cartier Tank. Ali was often photographed wearing his Tank JC—a gold-cased time-only watch with Roman numerals, paired with a black leather strap. Ali’s Tank is often referenced to prove that small watches can look great on larger wrists. If the G.O.A.T can wear one, anyone can.
Basculante, reference W1011158
Image courtesy of Bonhams
Considered an alternative to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s iconic Reverso, Cartier’s Basculante features a similar “flippable” dial that the Reverso is famous for. Like J-LC, Cartier went to Spécialités Horlogères to help it develop its own version. The result was something that flips vertically on a hinged frame as opposed to horizontally like the Reverso. This is an interesting Tank model that’s been commended for its “design integrity” and which retains all Cartier’s hallmarks including the cabochon crown, found at the top of the hinged frame.
Pebble, reference unknown
Image courtesy of Bonhams
The Pebble was born at the brand’s London workshop during the 60s, a period where Cartier created some of its best and most innovative pieces, such as the aforementioned Crash and the Maxi Oval. Its pebble-like design features a smooth gold round case in which a diamond-shaped white dial sits. Like many Cartier pieces, this model boasts Roman numerals and a cabochon crown. In 2022, Cartier reissued the Pebble to commemorate 50 years since it was first unveiled. Thankfully, the new version remained true to the original design.
Asymétrique, reference 2488
Image courtesy of Bonhams
Introduced in 1936, the Asymétrique was inspired by the Art Deco movement that defined the era. Its slanted case—although subtle by today’s standards—defied traditional watchmaking conventions. It’s a solid example of Cartier’s visionary approach to watchmaking. Cartier has revisited the Asymétrique several times over the years, most recently in 2020 when it was added to the Privé line. Platinum, red and yellow gold versions were made as well as some interesting skeletonised models.
Masse Mystérieuse, reference WHR00078
Unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2022, the Masse Mystérieuse pays tribute to old Cartier “Mystery clocks”, said to be influenced by the illusionist Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin. With their “floating” hands in the centre of the clockface, they appear to defy the laws of gravity. The watch’s skeletonised dial displays the D-shaped automatic winding mass which also contains the entire movement and all its components. The winding mass appears to be floating and moves freely around the watch—just like magic.
Révélation d’une Panthère, reference HP101259
If you like a watch that can double-up as a fidget spinner then you’ll love the Révélation d’une Panthère. Simply by moving your wrist around, 900 gold beads come together to form the face of a panther, a recurring Cartier motif. The beads will then float away in the viscous liquid in-between the crystal and the deep-green dial. Rotate your wrist over and over and marvel at the spectacle, as well as the sparkling diamond-studded bezel.
La Dona de Cartier, reference W640070I
Crocodiles may be lethal predators with razor-sharp teeth but that didn’t bother Mexican actress, singer and artist’s muse, María Félix, who kept them as pets. As a tribute to Felix, who died in 2002, Cartier released the La Dona De Cartier in 2006, featuring an incredible-looking bracelet with a weaved criss-cross effect, reminiscent of crocodile scales. The trapezoidal case is another standout feature, with its off-centre cabochon crown sitting higher up than usual.
Rudolph Valentino’s personal Tank
Image courtesy of Bonhams
Is there any better way to promote your watch then placing it on the wrist of Hollywood’s biggest heartthrob in a major film? It’s a classic move used often nowadays, most notably by Omega in the James Bond films. In the 1920s, the lusted-after actor Rudolph Valentino wore his own Tank (similar to the one pictured) in 1926 film The Son of The Sheikh in practically every scene. The film was a box-office smash, making Cartier’s Tank the most sought-after watch in the world at the time.
Roadster, reference W62002V3
Think of automotive watches and classic chronographs like TAG Heuer’s Carrera spring to mind. Cartier took a different approach to the Roadster, modelling it on the curves of a 1950s Cadillac and giving it a tonneau case with what might be the most protruding crown ever seen on a watch (insert your own appendage joke here). Discontinued in 2012 after a decade of production, this would be warmly welcomed should it ever be revived. We love the concentric black-dial version with Arabic numerals.
